Oatmeal, Goat’s Milk and Honey Soap

Oatmeal, milk, and honey soap seems like the comfort food of the soap world.  One smell and you’re reminded of a warm oven with cooling muffins sitting on top.  It’s a hug – in scent form.

Not only does it smell wonderful but it does wonderful things for your skin.  The finely ground oats soothe itchy and irritated skin.  They also soften and moisturize while you cleanse.  Goat’s milk contains healthful fatty acids and proteins which leave skin smooth and supple.  Goat’s milk is also rich in vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamin A, which is very important to skin health.  Honey is a humectant (it attracts moisture and keeps it locked in), speeds healing and prevents infection.

All of those ingredients add up to one wonderful soap.  Ready to try your hand at making some?  Here we go!

If you are a beginner and want more detailed instructions, check out this post first.

Oatmeal, Goat’s Milk, and Honey Soap (~4lb batch)

26 oz Olive Oil

19 oz Coconut Oil

5 oz Castor Oil

13 oz Distilled Water

6 oz canned Goat’s Milk

-My parents’ retirement dream is to have some land with a few milk goats on it and I look forward to being able to use their fresh goat’s milk for my soaps someday.  In the meantime, I use canned goat’s milk with the lye & water until I can get the “real deal” 

7.2 oz Lye

2 oz Oats, milled or ground into a fine flour

1 oz Honey

1 fl. oz Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil *Optional* I like to split this batch in half to scent part of it and to leave the rest natural.  As yummy as the fragranced soap is, I love the natural oatmeal soap smell.  It smells lightly of caramelized brown sugar.

You might notice that there is powdered goat’s milk in this picture. I’ve used both with great success but I haven’t noticed much difference between either. Since the canned milk is easier to use, I have liked using it more lately. Take your pick!

-First, set a large pot filled about halfway full of water, on the stove to come to a boil.  (We’re going to use this to heat the oils.)

-Weigh out water into a large bowl and lye into a small bowl or measuring cup.

-In a well-ventilated area, wearing goggles and gloves, slowly stir the lye into the water until dissolved.

ALWAYS add lye to water – never water to lye!!!

-Next, weigh out oils in a large bowl or bucket.

-Set bucket of oils into pot of boiling water to gently heat the oils.

-You want to cool down the lye water and heat up the oils to around 90-100˚.  Try to get them to the same temperature but they can be within 10˚ of each other.

-Once the lye solution has cooled, add in the canned goat’s milk.  Stir well.

-Slowly pour the lye/milk mixture into the oils while hand-stirring with your immersion blender.  Once it’s all in, beginning blending with your immersion blender in short bursts until you’ve reached a light trace. 

-Add in the honey, oat flour and fragrance (if using) at this point and mix until well combined but before the soap gets too heavy.

-Pour into your mold.  I’ve used a 3″ PVC tube for my mold this time.  Secure very well on the bottom with plastic wrap, rubber bands, and wax paper.  I recommend lightly greasing the inside of your mold with mineral oil or vaseline before you fill to help with getting the soap out later.

-Wait overnight and then remove the soap from your mold.  I’ve found that a slightly smaller diameter PVC pipe with a cap on the end works great to push the soap out of the mold.

-Slice and cure your soap for 4 weeks, flipping at least once a week.

44 Comments

  1. This recipe looks awesome! I’m looking forward to trying it out. I have my own goats for milk which I will be using. My question is can I use just goat milk for my liquid or do I have to use water too?

    1. Hello Jessica,
      I’m so sorry I missed seeing your comment! Yes, you can make goats milk soap only with milk but you want to freeze the milk to keep it from getting too hot and scorching.

  2. Aloha Emily,

    This soap looks super yummy. I was given a bunch of fresh goats milk and would like to try this recipe out. I’m a little confused as to the 6 oz of canned goats milk in your recipe. The picture shows the dry milk so is it 6 oz of reconstituted dry milk that you used? Would I just substitute that 6 oz for the fresh milk? And can I use more milk and less water so long as the two measurements together remain the same? I’ve only made soap once so I appreciate any advice you can offer. I didn’t understand how to use the calculator as there didn’t seem to be a place to input the milk measurement. Many thanks!

    Heather

    1. Hello Heather!
      I’m so sorry that I missed seeing your comment for so long. When I used the dry, powdered goat’s milk, I made sure and added the extra 6 oz of water to the water listed and mixed it with the lye. Then, I mae the soap and when it reached a thin trace, THAT’S when I added the powdered goat’s milk. I used 4 level scoops and mixed very well along with the added ground oats and honey.

    1. Hi Diane,
      You would use the same amount of frozen/slushy milk as canned. Just weigh out the 6oz. I don’t think there would be much of a difference – it might be a bit lighter at the end since it probably won’t get as hot!

  3. Hey, Emily! I tried this soap recently- I didn’t scent it at all and it just smells like saponification oils- not plesant at all! Any ideas what I might have done wrong?

    1. How recent was it? Sometimes it has that ‘fresh soap’ smell until it’s cured for a bit. When my soap is unscented, it definitely doesn’t have much of a smell but the milk getting hot in the gel phase gives it a very slight carmelized scent. If it’s still pretty fresh though you’ll still get a lot of that raw soap smell until it cures.

    2. I finished it last week. And as it cures, the smell is getting stronger! I’ve got a coffee based soap curing also, every time I step into the room, I’m blanketed by a wave of coffee and caramel! Yumm! I guess I’m a touch impatient with some things…. You got my hopes up with your description! But it’s coming along!

  4. Hi Emily: Love your recipes. However, I am not very good at measurements. Until I get some recipes I really like, I am needing 2 lb soap recipes. What size recipe is the one above for the Honey Oatmeal Soap? If I wanted the above recipe to be about 3 lbs, how would do that? HELP Thanks Betty

    1. Hey, Betty! I’ve found a great site: thesage.com, it’s the best lye conversion site I’ve found! It’s super simple- just plug in the oil amounts, and what liquid you’re going to use and the site will do all the work! It’ll give you lye amounts for different super fat amounts and tell you how much liquid to use. Good luck!

  5. Hi!!! I’m really excited to try this recipe. I have a question about the goats milk. I see yours is powered in the picture. Does it have to be powdered or can I use a evaporated goats milk??

  6. looks easy and fun.just wondering how big of a soap mold would u use if didn’t want to use pvc?i have a 5lb wood mold.should i cut the recipe in half for a 5lb?

  7. Hi Emily. Thanks for doing such a good job on yr blog it’s easy. Simple and in plain English where every one can understands love yr receipes all of my soaps haved turned out like yrs. gorgeous love it please keep putting them up. Thank u.

  8. Hi Emily! I just ordered some Oatmeal Milk and Honey scent from Brambleberry and can’t wait to try it out. I trust your recipes so I came to your blog to find a good basic recipe that doesn’t use all kind of hard to find oils.

    I don’t know that I have molds for this much soap.

    I also really don’t understand how to use a soap calculator. Do I need to know the superfat percentage or something to use a soap calc?

    Any ideas or thoughts on how to half this recipe?

    Thank you any thoughts/help on this!

    Gina

    1. Hi Loyda,
      Palm oil is usually solid at room temperature and is white. None of the oils is really a red color but I was wondering if you saw my honey in the picture and thought it was an oil. The honey is in a large mason jar and has a red tint. 🙂

    2. Yes, I got confused, since palm oil for me is red and palm shortening is the white solid one. I wonder, I can sub with lard?

  9. Hi Emily,

    I am new to soap making and am excited to try your recipes. Thank you so much for sharing your recipes with us beginners! I only hope l can make my soap look as beautiful and appealing as yours. My question is probably obvious to others but in your recipe ingredients, you listed 1 fl. oz Oatmeal, Milk, and Honey FO. What exactly does the FO stand for?

    1. Hi Lisa! I’m so glad you’re enjoying this fun (addictive) hobby. Thank you for pointing out that I had put the initials instead of spelling out “Fragrance Oil”. I’ll get that changed!
      If you ever see FO in soap-making that means fragrance oil and EO means essential oil.

    1. Hi Rebecca,
      At the time I did this tutorial, I was using 3″ PVC pipe. This is a rather large recipe so I split it between a 2′ pipe and a 1′ pipe. I scented the larger portion with a fragrance oil and left the smaller portion unscented. I really don’t suggest using PVC over 1′ in length. The large batches in the 2′ section were a bear to remove and unwieldy. If you use PVC, have several 1′ pipes on hand. This recipe will fill 3 of them.
      Currently, I’ve moved on to the column mold sold by Brambleberry. You can find them here: http://www.brambleberry.com/Heavy-Duty-Column-Mold-P5401.aspx I really like the inner liner and removing soap is much much easier than with the PVC. They’re a good price too!
      I hope this helps!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s